![]() All other hardware is placed identically. The”Bandmaster” and “Bassman” of this era were exactly the same size ( 32″ x 20″ x 11″, NOT 32x21x11 as published ) The only way to differentiate between the “Bandmaster” and “Bassman” speaker cabinet is the location of the thumb screw receptacles on the top of the cabinet. The “Showman” cabinet did have a single fifteen inch speaker offered in a ring and non-ring variations in the 60s.įurthermore the cabinet dimensions of the 62-66 “Bandmaster” and 60-66 “Bassman” are misrepresented herein. Many mistake these for a single fifteen because they will accommodate a fifteen inch speaker if the metal one twelve “tone ring” is removed. ( these versions had oxblood and wheat grille cloth respectively although there are many transitional variants ). 1961-63, there was a Rough Blonde tolex one twelve version of the “tone ring” cabinet, and a smooth blonde tolex version in 63-64. ReplyĮarlier in this thread it is erroneously stated that the 1960s “Bandmaster” piggy back cabinet contained one fifteen inch speaker. Well, at least the pawn shop didn’t know what it was (because it was all ugly black) and I got it reeeeeal cheap. I have got it mostly cleaned up and am tracking down new grill cloth. First thing I did to my ’71 Univox bass amp, too.Īs a side note, the Bandmaster I got… Someone had taken a can of black spray paint to the whole head, faceplate, knobs, grill cloth and all. ![]() I just acquired a ’67 Bandmaster, and that was the first thing I did to it. It is highly recommended (and does not affect the collectability of the amp) to get it converted to a 3 prong plug, and have the chassis grounded properly. However, if the cap of death goes bad and shorts, you now have a “hot” chassis and can get electrocuted if you touch it and something else that is not grounded properly. The idea is that if your amp was humming, switch to the other power line to stop the hum. Switching the “Ground” switch switches between which of the power lines the chassis is connected to. Since the amp was designed and built before power mains had a ground (three prong plugs), the chassis is connected, through a capacitor (called the cap of death), to one of the two power lines. Model: Jensen C12N or Oxford 12T6(For more info, check out the Jensen Replacement Speakers)Ģ×12 Cabinet dimensions changed to 29-1/2″ x 40″ x 11-1/2″ with the speakers were placed one above the other.Raised, chrome & black, script with tail ~ 1964-1967.Hardware: Large Chassis Straps 5 5/8″, Side Bar Clips, 16″ Tilt-Back Legs, Thumb screws, Thumb screw receptacles.Rear: AC Outlet, Ground Sw, Fuse (2A), Power Sw, Standby Sw, Speaker Jack, Ex. ![]() Front: Normal: In, In, Bright Sw, Vol, Treb, Bass – Vibrato: In, In, Bright Sw, Vol, Treb, Bass, Speed, Intensity – Pilot Lamp.I wonder how long they had been leaking like that. The P/S filter caps had certainly seen their day. Thanks to all for your input and help on this. Played it into 2 different 2x12 cabinets and I'm in heaven. Replaced tremolo photoresistor assembly with Surf Bug from Tonecraft Replaced Bias Supply caps and bias resistor/diode with Sprague Atom 25uF/500VDC Replaced cathode bias caps in preamp with Sprague Atom 25uF/25VDC Missing power tube grid resistors -install Suspect power tube screen resistors - replace Missing NORMAL volume pot and bright cap - install Leaking power supply electrolytic caps - replace with F&T Bob - I know I could have used the Hammonds, but wanted to try this out. Can't believe how the old one was jammed in there, hanging by 1 tab. Incorrect 3A/32V mains fuse installed - replaceīig honking output transformer - replaced with Mercury Magnetics. Ned Ward wrote on Sat, 28 March 2009 20:48
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